Signage, paths & no cows: three wells in North Kerry

This was rather an unexpected sight to see in a remote area of North Kerry: three larger than life statues of St Bridget, Our Lady and Christ crucified lined up along the side of a road. They were of course connected with a holy well.

Knoppoge Holy Well, St Brigid’s Well, Tobar Eilís, Tobereleesh, Tobar Leighis

The shrine is part of the site connected with Knoppoge Holy Well, also known as St Bridget’s Well, Tobar Eilís and Tobar Leighis. The well is actually a large spring, the water bubbling up from under the ground, fresh and clear.

The well is roughly oval, sturdily lined with large blocks of rounded stones. The water, which can be seen percolating, is channeled off into the marshy reeds. It holds two cures and their effectiveness is dependent on which day you visit: Friday is the day to go for general health problems, and Saturday for mental health concerns. This is the only well I have come across that has this dual purpose. Tobar Leighis, one of the names for the well, means Well of the Cures.

Three rounds are required, during which the rosary is recited. The rounds include a nearby enclosure or ringfort. The fort is now much flattened but you can still make out the circular shape below the bungalow.

A golden trout is said to live in the well, bestowing the usual good luck on those who see it.This extract from the Schools’ Folklore Collection gives a nice summing up:

There is a well about half a mile from my house and it is called Tobar Eilis. It is situated a few hundred yards from the public road.This well is called after St Brigid. A lot of people go there paying rounds and some people are cured. People pay rounds at the well on Friday evening and more on Saturday. People go on Friday for the health and on Saturday for the head. It is said that persons who are cured see a gold fish in the well. The people that pay rounds leave a medal or a picture or a bead near it. The well is opened to the public. There is a mound of earth near it and it is circular in shape. Round this the people walk when they are paying the round. They say three rosaries for every round.

The shrine dates from the 1950s for Caoimhin Ó Donachair, in his paper The Holy Wells of North Kerry published in 1958, refers to it as being recently erected. I was delighted to hear from Norma O’Carroll who described how her grandfather, John Costelloe, had worked extensively on both statues and grotto. The central figure is the Blessed Virgin Mary enclosed in a grotto. The stone work is interesting, as it is in all the statues, for it is defined by decorative quartz. White quartz, known as clocha geala, shining stones, occurs at many holy well sites. For a fascinating overview of its usage in the Irish tradition see Jane Brideson’s blog on the subject in her website: The Ever-Living Ones.

Two steps lead up to the grotto, a rather rusty and hopeful collection box in one corner, a stone engraved with IHS on the plateau.

To the left of Our Lady is St Bridget, recognisable by her staff and holding her church. She wears nun’s robes in this depiction. Apparently she stopped at this well on her way to Kerry Head, en route to visiting St Dahalin, hence the well is sometimes referred to as St Bridget’s Well.

She stand atop a mound carefully constructed from large stones with more decorative quartz work, a box of colourful pelargoniums at the base.

To the right of the BVM is the mournful figure of Christ crucified, again on a decorative mound with another box of bright pelargoniums.

Ó Danachair described having seen a whitehorn bush hung with rags but this seems to have disappeared. It’s a beautifully maintained site, if somewhat manicured, and still revered. The next well is nicely kept too.

Sunday’s Well. Tobareen Domhnach,Tobar Rí an Domhnaigh

Sundays Well or Tobar Rí an Domhnaigh lies just off a small road known as Ladies’ Walk.  According to GoKerry website, the road got its name thus:

Ladies used to walk everyday from the Great House in Rattoo to another Great House in Ballyhorgan. In those days, there was a law that stated that the people living on the road that linked the two houses were not allowed to have windows facing the road so they could look at the ladies walking by! This is why the road is now known as Ladies Walk!

There were no rambling ladies today but there was an encouraging sign leading to the well.

It lies in an enclosed area approached through a neatly painted metal gate flanked by white and blue painted pillars.

The site is enclosed by tall hedges, laid out with paths, the lawn recently mown. A small shed in the left hand corner contains useful things.

The  well is in a dip and approached down three steps, gleaming white handrails provided. The well lies in a rectangular basin, below ground level. It is overlooked by a stone grotto complete with large statue of the BVM. Attractive metal lettering curves around her proclaiming Tobareen Domhnach.

The water is clear, a ladle left on the side should you wish to take a drink. According to an extract on the GoKerry website for Ballyduff, drinking the water will: give great peace and health. Himself has a sore knee so thought it might benefit from a bit of peace and health.

Interestingly the same site refers to this well as Tobar Rí an Domhnaigh, Sunday’s Well, but also  as Well of the Lepers – did this well take over the duties of the closed well at Rattoo mentioned in the last blog?

The site was restored in 1991 and a Mass held to celebrate. Previously it had been: ‘a small natural pool about three feet in diameter with a clear spring, in a marshy field corner. (Ó Danachair).The well is still revered and visited. Mass is held here every May though I haven’t been able to find out exactly when.

Revisiting this well in July 2024, I came across a Mass being held here. The site was beautifully decorated with fresh flowers and the Mass very well attended. The hurley was a nice touch for the All Ireland Hurling Final was about to be held – Cork v Clare, Clare the eventual winners after a nail-biting match.

I came back the day after to take a few more photo.

On to Kilflynn in search of the elusive hermit St Flainn. The village sign looked promising.

St Flainn’s Holy Well, Tobar Flainn, Toberflyn

Signage proved to be a strong point from the road and walking over the bridge another welcoming marker pointed the way, attached to a smart construction complete with niche containing two statues of the BVM. A crutch was propped up against the stone. We were on the right track.

We followed the sign down a grassy track towards the river. The signage ran out but the walk  continued through pleasant leafy woodland, the path getting smaller and smaller. A gate was open – we went through.

The trees formed a canopy overhead as we rambled onwards. It was quiet and beautiful.

Finally the well site came into view, nestling amongst the trees.

The centrepiece is a shrine to the BVM, a large statue of her enclosed in a raised stone niche. To the right is a simple stone altar with a slate top. The well itself is small and almost insignificant, lying at the base of the shrine. The site was tidied up in 1953 by Muintir na Tire, the grotto and  altar erected and the well reshaped – originally it had: gushed from a heap of stones (Ó Danachair). Today the water trickled out of a spout into a small circular depression, leafy and mossy.

The water is potent though and holds a cure for blindness and sore eyes. The story behind it is a good one:

Cill Flainn, meaning Church of Flainn derives its name from a hermit monk, Flainn (C600) who lived locally in a wattle hut by the river Shannow.  After a lifetime dedicated to the Virgin Mary and the people of the area, he became crippled and lost his sight. Our Lady came to him in a vision and offered to restore his sight. He asked instead that the healing be put into the local spring.

Kilflynn: GoKerry.ie

This entry from the Schools’ Folklore Collection confirms the tale:

Tobar Flainn is situated in Shanavalla. It is on the side of a hillock beside the River Rae which joins the river Shannon. Near this well is to be seen the ruins of the hermitage of Saint Floinn. It is believed that Saint Floinn came from County Clare. Anybody (sic) does not know where this saint was born or his burial place. Saint Floinn was blind in his old age, but he did not wish to get cured but he left the cure in the well for future generations.

SFC:221:0412

True to her word, the BVM ensured that the well held a cure for all ailments associated with eyes. She is fondly remembered here and still revered.

The most potent day to visit the well is May Eve when rounds are paid:

The well is surrounded by a wall and over it grows a large yew tree which is laden with offerings and decorated with beautiful flowers. Rounds are paid to this well on May Eve. When saying the Rosary a person should begin at the well and proceed to the right up a little hill and round the well and then finish it at the well.

SFC:221:0412

This pilgrimage was given a new lease of life in the 1950s. This charming extract from A Social History of Rural Ireland of the 1950s: Remembering Crotta by John Galvin describes how he took part as a young boy:

… There is a blessed well in Kilflynn on the northern banks of the Shannow River, whose origin dates back to monastic Ireland when a hermit monk lived there. When Fr. Hurley took up his duties in this parish he revived the old tradition of visiting this well on May Eve. A huge crowd gathered on Shannow Bridge and he lead the procession back along the river bank. We all sang Bring Flowers of the Rarest and other hymns as we walked along. It was a joyful experience made memorable by the glorious sunshine. After saying some prayers he blessed us with water from the well and gave us a short talk on the history of Naomh Flainn who built a shack near here fourteen hundred years back. The sun was shining brightly and we made our way back to the village. Mammy was deep in conversation with other women. She was in her element. Meeting and talking was all she needed, but we needed more and Cordon’s shop was the place to get it. She gave a shilling to each of us to spend at will. We indulged our taste buds with all the cheapest junk and walked home feeling happy and contented. It was a wonderful community occasion that brought joy and happiness to many people. When Fr. Hurley left the parish the practice ceased. Some members of the clergy felt that such worship was more associated with Pagan Celtic tradition than Catholic Church tradition.

Thankfully the pattern has since been revived and an open air Mass is held here every May Eve. The procession starts at St Mary’s church in the village then winds along the river to the well, reciting the rosary. The well seems active and loved judging by the array of offerings left.

Some areas of the site show an inventive use of recycling.

A note left in the grotto alerted us to some stained glass windows depicting St Flainn. Reluctantly we left this peaceful spot and made our leisurely way back to the village and the church.

The window is a fine and powerful one, the light streaming through the glass on the day we visited. It is the work of Linda Graham, manufactured by Sheridan Stained Glass of Kilkenny. St Flainn looks old and exhausted, skinny and frail but the gentle touch of the BVM’s hand shows how he was considered.

St Flainn, also known as Flann Fionn (the Fair) is an elusive figure, possibly the son of Inghean Bhuidhe and maybe brother to St Mochuda according to the Pádraig Ó Riain’s Dictionary of Irish Saints. He may have been connected with the Céile Dé or Culdees (Spouses of God, literally) and his description as a hermit hints at this this. He has another well dedicated to him on the Dingle Peninsula – much harder to access! He died in AD825 and his feast day is 21st December, though his pattern day in Dingle is the 29th July.

Another visit in May 2024 and the well was looking in good repair. I was accompanied by two very bouncy dogs who were thrilled to show me the way!

Many thanks to Norma O ‘Carroll for her extra information.

The location of these wells can be found in the Gazetteer.