Whilst up Mount Brandon and chatting with Mícheal he asked me if I had been to St Flainn’s Well. I confessed I had not, mainly because the Archaeological Inventory is rather dismissive:
Toberyline/Tobar Flainn: Located at the base of the sea cliffs immediately S of Brandon point. It is a ‘clear spring in a rock crevice below high tide level’ (Ó Danachair 1960, 72) and was visited on June 29th as part of a turas which also included Turrasyline (KE026-003), 500m to SW. The Co Kerry Field Club (1948) noted that the site was visited on New Years Day. The well is not easily accessible and was not inspected during this survey. (Archaeological Inventory)
Mícheal told me that there was to be a pattern the next day in Bréanainn, Brandon, and by a happy coincidence it was also St Flainn’s feast day. Spurred on by visions of clear signage, well trodden paths and a nicely kept well, I decided Tobar Fláinn had to be visited. Mícheal suggested we made further inquiries in An Clochán, Cloghane, that evening. This we did and soon met up with a young man who had information. The well was near his grandmother’s house – we were to look for the house with the big conservatory but not to go past it. Then to look for the sheepfolds and then head straight down the fields towards the sea. The well was somewhere in the rocks. Would I know it when I saw it I mused? He wasn’t sure about that.
St Flainn’s Well,Tobar Fláinn, Toberyline
The next morning we decided to investigate first stopping off at this magnificent
beach just outside the village of Cloghane. We drove down tiny roads almost until we could drive no longer, last stop Srón Bhroin, the point from which St Brendan may have set sailed on his transatlantic adventures. We found the house with the big conservatory and we spotted the sheepfolds but there was no sign of enthusiastic pilgrims. I asked a woman taking a walk and she said it was indeed the pattern day but she looked doubtful that anyone would be visiting the well and was concerned about me going down without a local.
A farmer was at work with his dog, gathering sheep in the field. I asked him if he knew of the well. Chrisssht, he exclaimed, I’ve never been down there. You can go off and be as holy as you like. He gestured downwards into the steeply sloping fields and told me to look for a gap in the fence. I obeyed, went down through the sheepfolds and into the pasture, scattering sheep.
Two fields down there was a hedge but no hint of what might lie beyond, except for sea. The views were magnificent. I could just see a lone fisherman in his boat, standing up, rod flung wide.
Eventually, I spotted a rickety wicket gate – always a promising sign.
I unhooked the twine and pulled it gently open and a surprising if slightly daunting sight met my eyes – a bright blue rope, firmly tied to a post.
This had to be the spot!
And how useful that rope turned out to be. Hanging on, I abseiled (!) down the rocks- the tide was fortunately out.
There was no immediate sign of any well though a stream trickled half-heartedly down from the field above. Suddenly I spotted water emerging from a rock – was this it? I like to think it was for it fits the description of a clear spring in a rock crevice; the water could be seen bubbling out from the rock.
It is also exactly where it is marked on the 25 inch historic map.
However on the 6 inch historic map and in the current Archaeological Inventory it is marked two fields away to the west.
The gate and the rope are surely there for the very purpose of making life slightly easier for intrepid pilgrims visiting St Flainn’s well.
The remains of a penitential station, marked on all maps and once associated with the well, lie in close proximity. This had to be explored but first, back up the rope.
Clambering up into the fields, a further distraction appeared in the shape of a sheep stuck in the metal fencing. I tried to set it free but it had horns and I was afraid of wedging it in further. I resolved to tell the farmer on my return.
Penitential Station, Turas Uí Fhlainn, Turrasyline
Up in the fields a jumble of interesting stonework is all that remains of the penitential station:
Turrasyline/Turas Fhlainn: (KE026-003) Classification of this site is difficult due to the very ruined and disturbed nature of the remains. The turas from which the site derives its name was performed here within living memory and included a visit to Tobar Fhlainn (KE026-002), at the base of the sea-cliffs c. 500m to N. This suggests an ecclesiastical origin for the site and a local tradition of a church here further supports this interpretation. (Archaeological Inventory)
It is thought there were possibly four or five clocháns here, beehive-shaped constructions, probably associated with an early church.
They are sturdily constructed but much damaged. What an incredible view from up here though. Apparently once great crowds attended the pattern day on St Flainn’s feast day, 29th July, and rounds were paid here at Turas Uí Fhlainn or Turrasyline. Three circuits were required, reciting the Rosary each time. Pilgrims then went down to the well and drank the water. It seems the well may originally have been up here amongst the clocháns but moved after a woman stole some wool and swore her innocence at the well. Disgruntled, the well moved down to the sea line and the stolen wool was revealed! (O Danachair, The Holy Wells of Corkaguiney). Or is this the reason the well is marked in different places in the 25 inch and 6 inch historic maps?
Returning I found the farmer again and told him of the sheep. I know. I saw. I hoped you might sort it, he said. I tried, I told him. She Just needs two kicks up the arse, was the response.
Lunch was required and we returned to Brandon, looking beautiful in the sunshine, and gearing up for the festivities, with or without a visit to the St Flainn’s holy well.
Impressed that you ventured down that rope! Lovely light in the photos.
I agree with Peter about those photographs. How interesting that you were told there would be a pattern day, so the memory is still very much alive. The blue rope was helpful!!
I join the list of the impressed. Another adventure for the intrepid well hunter.
Thanks, it was quite an adventure!
Amanda,I never cease to be amazed at your sheer determination,fortitude,and,in this case,Bravery(!)in ferreting out these fascinating Holy Wells!Sounds like a lovely spot.too bad about the sheep.(I confess,I have applied that farmer’s recipe to the Mrs.on occaision)