An unexpected pleasure:Tobar Eoin Basti

I’m just back from a couple of days in Fermoy, meandering up and down the sides of the M8 in pursuit of the last crop of holy wells in this area – more of those shortly. This well, the final one of the trip, was an unplanned visit. Glancing at the map, I saw an unvisited well, quite a distance from where I was. It was a well I had just missed when visiting St John’s Well in Toreen  a few weeks previously. The Archaeological Inventory entry made dispiriting reading and I nearly didn’t bother:

In wet boggy area. Site not located.

I persevered and, as is often the case, St John’s Well turned out to be an unexpected pleasure.

St John’s Well, Tobar Eoin Basti

The roads to the unusually named townland of Athnaleentha are small and it started to drizzle but I was rewarded with the reassuring sight of a little gate and a sign.

Not only was the well in evidence it was very nicely looked after, the surrounding area blooming with flowers and shrubs, steps leading to the well and a small bench placed for contemplation  (I later discovered that the well had originally been on the other side of the road but much preferred this leafy position!)

The wellhouse is circular, built into the sloping hillside. The walls are made of stone, now mossy and sprouting harts horn ferns. A rectangular opening and a step leads down to the well itself.

The water is clear and plentiful, two cups placed on the roof of the building for pilgrims.

The roof is slightly domed, a modern addition, and rimmed with white quartz pebbles making a heart shape. A white cross is the centre is strewn with rosaries. Over the entrance to the well, a triangular area defined by pebbles contains an inscribed cross.

A rag tree festooned with rosary beads and scraps of fabric hangs protectively over the well.

The area felt lush and peaceful, today dripping in the rain, the colours intensified.

The well is dedicated to St John the Baptist, it’s full name as Gaeilge Tobar Eoin Basti. It was visited by Colonel Grove White in 1910 and his photo shows the same circular stone walls minus the roof.

He recorded the following:

The Field Book of 1840 gives: A Holy Well on the North side of Garynagerragh. It is a Holy Well dedicated to St John the Baptist, at which Stations were performed on the 24rd June. Patrons were held here also but are discontinued at the command of the priesthood.

The Holy Well is near Athnaleentha. According to local tradition it once stood on the W side of the road, but when Mass was celebrated under some trees across the road the Holy Well removed across the road to these trees, its present site. Rounds are still paid at this Holy Well  on St John’s Day for cure of any disease and pains. I visited this spot in September 1910.

There was a thatched chapel immediately N of the junction of the roads N of Athnaleentha. The last time Mass was celebrated in it was 1847, after which a new church to the W of the Holy Well was brought into use…. The Patron of the Parish and Athnaleentha Church is St Michael the Artchangel (124: Vol IV)

The church remains in use, and a plaque now commemorates where the thatched chapel once stood. Another of these moving North Cork wells, but I don’t blame it – under the trees is a peaceful and desirable position.

The location of this well can be found in the Gazetteer.

And a quick plea: I am now coming to the end of exploring and recording the holy wells in County Cork. There are a few scattered here and there that I still have to visit but if anyone knows of any that I should have visited please let me know!