A final trip into the Gaeltacht Mhúscraí was required to find three unvisited wells. We intended to stay in the area for three days, Himself walking the Slí Muscrai Gaeltacht. I also had a motley quartet in my sights around Newtownshandrum. But we were slightly thwarted by the weather: no, not torrential rain or floods or fogginess, it was just too hot! By the third day the temperature was predicted to hit 29C – way too hot for sitting in a car, negotiating small roads, and trampling across fields so Newtownshandrum was temporarily abandoned! As was the final stretch of the walk from Baile Bhuirne to Millstreet!
The search for new wells was slightly unsatisfactory but I did visit a few old favourites so bear with me if this blog is mainly photos and not much substance!
The Gaeltacht Mhuscraí
There are four Irish speaking communities in County Cork: Baile Bhuirne (Ballyvourney), Béal Átha an Ghaorthaidh (Ballingeary), Cúil Aodha (Coolea) and Oileán Chléire (Clear Island). The popular name for the Cork Gaeltacht is Múscraí. It has a population of 3530 people, 4% of the entire Gaeltacht population. Gougane Barra is on the edge of the Gaeltacht, always a good place to stop for a coffee, stretch the legs and just gasp at the sheer beauty of the landscape.
There are two holy wells here too, visited on St Finbar’s Feast day, 25th September.
The signs start changing into Gaeilge as soon you enter the colourful and attractive village of Béal Átha an Ghaorthaidh – Ballingeary. Even the bug hotel announces itself as Gaeilge!
Baile Bhúirne, our base, is also colourful, welcoming and full of interest. We paid our respects to St Gobnait of course, who has three wells dedicated to her in the vicinity.
But we were too hot and sweaty to take the trek across the fields to see St Abán – one of my very favourite sites. Apologies, St A.
After a restful stay at Ballyvourney Home Farm I was ready for some exploring. First on the list was a wart well near Millstreet.
In trough area of fulacht fiadh (10757). Open stone-lined rectangular well (1.1m NE-SW; 0.6m NW-SE); flagged on SW side. Locally known as holy well which cured warts. (Archaeological Inventory)
No, it didn’t sound exactly thrilling so I braced myself with a coffee and a relaxing and reviving visit to Tubrid Well. Cool and sparkling, even in the heat, it’s always a lovely place to linger.
Wart Well, Drominagh
With some reluctance I forced myself away from the coolness of Tubrid and went back on the road – small ones. The wart well looked tricky to find but fortunately the landowner and his son were out and about as I arrived. He knew of a spring which had been used as a cattle trough but it had since been infilled. He had never heard of any holy connection. He assured me there was nothing to see and I accepted his word. This well is not shown on any of the old OS maps but is another example of a holy well being incorporated into a fulacht fiadh. There’s another great example nearby in Newmarket.
Back in the car and on to Cleanrath townland and a well I had longed to visit just because of the name: Well of the Quaking Bog!
Well of the Quaking Bog, Tobar na Tuinne
This well has associations with two saintly sisters. One of them was said to have rested here on their way to or from Cullen to Dromtarriff.
Not shown on 1842 OS 6-inch map; indicated on 1904 OS 6-inch map. In wet ground; subcircular shallow depression (diam. c. 2m) with channel running N to stream. ‘Locally called Tobar na Tuinne – well of the Quaking Bog’ (Bowman 1934, 295-6). ‘Deep…diam. c. 10ft. It is said that Inghe Buidhe (see 13982)…rested by this well on her way to Cullen.’ (ibid.). According to Ó Nuanáin (1996, 57), called ‘Tobar na Teine’ because Latiaran (see 14026) resting here on her way from Cullen to Dromtarriff (13982), lit a fire and a well rose on the spot. (Archaeological Inventory)
St Laitiarian has an attractive well dedicated to her in Cullen (unexpectedly humming with a tour group on a magical mythical tour when I arrived this time).
While Inghne Bhuidhe has a delightful well dedicated to her in nearby Dromtarriff.
On consulting the map my heart sank a bit for here was another well in the middle of nowhere with several possible ways of getting to it, and none very clear. And would the bog still be quaking? Marked as holy well on the 6 inch OS map (1829-40), I decided to try the first option off the main road. I met Maureen and her grandson – she knew of the well and even knew of the landowner and offered to ring her up there and then. The house and land were being renovated into holiday homes she explained but sadly the owner was not there. Maureen assured me it would be fine to go and have a look. She thought the well was being incorporated into a walk and gave me directions how to get there.
What a beautiful spot but so remote – tiny roads, moorland, forestry and then the house, secret in a bower of trees. After a quick wander around, GPS on, I spotted an encouraging sign but there was no visible path through the ensuing thicket. And no bog.
As I was pondering, a young man came to my assistance. He too knew of the well and could remember visiting it when he was much younger. He led me to where he thought it was but there was no way we could go any further, so dense were the briars and nettles. This well was once visited in May and August, its main pattern day being 1st May. The water held a cure for toothache, and there was also a rag tree associated with it. It was frustrating not to find it but the sign is encouraging and hopefully the well is still there, waiting to be rediscovered and cherished. Possibly still quaking.
Inse Mhor Holy Well
The final well looked even more remote than the first two – the road literally ending up on the mountain. As predicted the journey was interesting. Once past the very attractive village of Cúil Áodha, Coolea, the road became seriously tiny, made even more hairy by the fact that resurfacing was going on and the road was full of huge Healy Rae lorries that seemed to be exactly the width of the road. Squeezing by we went off further into the countryside towards the delightfully named Carraig na Spioróge (Rock of the Robins) until the road literally ran out.The Archaeological Inventory information was somewhat sparse:
On the N side of a road, on a S-facing slope. Spring water emerges from the base of an earthen bank which is covered with ferns, briars and bushes. According to local information, this is a holy well and its water was used to cure animal ailments.
A bit of rootling around at the edge of the road, and there were still plenty of ferns and briars mingling with foxgloves and scabious to be seen, and a trickle of water was found emerging from the bank just where the GPS thought it should be. I am hoping this was the spot.
An incredibly scenic spot but a well long forgotten I suspect.
We seemed to have been following the path of the Sulán river and it was heavenly to dip our feet in it before beginning the journey home.
What a shame – to find the sign, but not the well… You will have to return in the winter. Good hunting!
So close but so far!
Always impressed by your indefatigueable determination Amanda!Beautiful pics as always.Truly you are an amazing Artist and Historian!
And you are a very generous supporter – thanks so much Tim