In the footsteps of St Fachtna

Today, 13th August, is the Feast Day of St Fachtna. At least I think it is! It was originally the 14th of August but sometime in the 1960s, the General Roman Calendar, which seems to decided these things, offered the day to St Maximilian Kolbe instead, and St Fachtna was given the 13th. Anyway, it seems only right and proper to feature a well dedicated to him today. St Fachtna is associated with Rosscarbery where he founded a monastery in the sixth century. The monastery became a seat of learning, its old boys including Brendan the Navigator. Fachtna himself sounds an interesting and much respected character. He was born into the Corca Laighdhe, one time rulers of ancient Munster, and became a pupil of another famous Cork saint, Finbarr. Fachtna’s nickname was Fachtna Facundus or Fachtna the Eloquent. He eventually became Bishop of Ross.

Fachtna, the generous and steadfast, loved

To instruct the crowds in concert,

He never spoke that which was mean,

Nor aught but what was pleasing to his Lord.

He was also known as Mac Mongach or Hairy Child, as he was said to have been born with a fine crop of hair! His presence is still very strong wherever you go in Rosscarbery today: the Catholic church and the Church of Ireland Cathedral are both named after him; the school bears his name as do many local boys. At least one holy well in Rosscarbery is dedicated to him, (possibly two), and that, along with three other wells, was on the agenda for today’s exploration; my companion was Hannah, a native of these parts.

St Cummin’s Well, Rosscarbery

The first well on the list had nothing to do with Fachtna but with the rather obscure St Cummin. The well was described as being in a niche in the wall of the graveyard, inside judging by the map. The graveyard looks out across the estuary in a townland called English Island – Ross was once a settlement for the English, walled and protected. We could find nothing and inquired of a man tidying graves in an official looking manner. Derry was delighted to help us. He knew Hannah’s brother but he had never heard of the well. He was keen to investigate, took charge of the map and persuaded us where it should be. Nothing. I spotted a large rock with what looked like  a basin below, now filled with debris. It looked promising.

Would I get my spade and start digging? he inquired.

He enthusiastically set too and almost immediately revealed a slab of limestone, finely decorated with a cross – even more promising. But further digging revealed nothing, we reluctantly thanked him and continued on our way, deciding to venture outside the wall. And there it was – a rather unprepossessing trough in a niche in the wall. The trough was metal and the water within full of duckweed. Obviously renovated at some point there was a small hole above where the water seemed to issue from. No sign or signal that you were looking at something special.

A little research explained why the hunt had been so tricky. The well is not in its original position and had been moved when the road was widened many years ago. An entry in the Schools’ Folklore Collection gives some information complete with a rather alarming tale:

It is situated at the extreme east of the abbey burying ground. St Cummin was in the habit of praying at the well. And it seems he wore no boots  as he left the imprint of his toes and knees in a knoll or rock in front of the well. In course of time a new road … was in construction towards the town of Rosscarbery,  In order to give this road its proper width it would impinge on the well, but this could be avoided by taking it a few yards to the east where there was ample space, but at the same time this may not be so convenient. The ganger in charge, a man called Ford, wanted to take the most convenient course, so he gave order to the workmen to cut away the rock in the front of the well but they refused to have anything to do with it. The ganger took a pick, smashed the rock and obliterated the marks which were supposed to have been made by St Cummin, Not long after this, perhaps a week or two, the ganger was observing a flat bottomed  boat being pushed along by rollers on an incline plane, towards the beach, Unfortunately he was struck by one of the rollers and he fell under the boat, which crushed him to death, It is rather strange how it happened but those who knew that he interfered with the well said it was a visitation from Providence.

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And St Cummin? A rather elusive saint, born in Mayo, whose feast day is the last Sunday in July, or Garland Sunday, though this extract gives his feast day as the 24th August:

Within the Abbey grounds stands St. Cummin’s or Cremeen’s Well to which Pilgrims, mainly sick, feeble, and deformed persons flock, on August 24th of each year (Pattern Day) to pay rounds both at the Holy Well and at the tomb of Fr. John Power whose tomb is within the Abbey Graveyard.

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 St Fachtna or St Brigid’s Well, Rosscarbery

The next visit was to another unloved little well, lurking unobtrusively just outside the walls of the Convent of Mercy, high up on the hill. Jack Roberts in his book Exploring West Cork says this well is dedicated to St Fachtna. It is also marked as such on the historic OS maps.

Hannah, who went to school in this very convent, didn’t know it even existed. Today it’s just a plain slabbed rectangular basin built against the wall, some larger stones around it, looking very sorry for itself. Look carefully to spot the well by the entrance pillar.

There is an interesting story connected with how it came into being though:

Origin of this well: There was a Convent situated on the site of the present building at some period of Ireland’s Golden Age. One day a nun, believed to be Saint Sera was carrying fire in her apron, and indulged a vain glorious thought while doing so. Immediately her clothes took fire, she repented on the instant, dropped the fire from her, and where it touched the ground, a well of spring water sprang up.

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Very similar to the story told at St Laitiarian’s well in North Cork.

The well may look rather sorry for itself but it did not appreciate being disrespected:

In ancient times when pilgrimages were made to this well, a Protestant bishop determined to stop them. He ordered his men to break the stone slab. They refused, and the story goes that he broke it himself and profaned the well. As a punishment he was deprived of the gift of speech and whenever he attempted to speak, he could only quack like a duck.

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The water was also considered beneficial to those who were dying:

They sometimes get a bottle of it, and believe in its efficacy for the cure of internal pains. It is sometimes given to dying people, as it is believed to make their last hours peaceful and free from bodily suffering.

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The convent is now empty of nuns and we had a little wander around, Hannah reminiscing. It is a fine building, with great architectural details and huge views down to the estuary. It even has a farm at the back, rows of little cottages empty and neglected. It’s currently for sale (November 2018).

St Fachtna’s shrine, Teampuillín Fachtna, Burgatia

It is thought that the townland of Burgatia, on the outskirts of Rosscarbery, was where St Fachtna has his original monastery. Rather incongruously amongst houses are the remains of an old church, known as Teampuillin Fachtna or Templefaughnan, complete with modern altar and statues of the saint himself and the Blessed Virgin Mary, both enclosed in glass. St Fachtna looked a kindly if solemn soul, holding an elaborate blue book. Across the road is a ringfort where the saint is said to have preached. – Lios Faughnan.

I suspect rounds will be paid here today (13th August) but I could find no firm information.

There are several stories connected with this ancient place. Apparently St Fachtna used to pray here daily and one day he forgot his prayer book. In the night it thundered and lashed down but when he went to search for the book the next morning it was found unblemished. Angels built a small chapel where the miracle had occurred – you can see the outline of the chapel behind the shrines. Legend has it that no one has ever been struck by lightening within a three mile radius of the chapel!

A curious contraption within the chapel begged to be investigated.

Lifting up the crate revealed a rectangular patch of earth, neatly outlined with stones. Should you rub your eyes with this earth it is said they will be cured of any ailments.

St Fachtna’s Little Well, Tobairín Fachtna, Burgatia

The well is a little further down the road, now enclosed by a wall and gated. Once it could only be accessed by crossing the small stream nearby, the stepping stones used by pilgrims clearly visible on the historic maps.

There is a well in Rosscarbery called ‘Tobairín Fachtna’, and people visit it on St. John’s night June 23rd. To get to the well they have to cross a small stream, and they do this barefoot, they also make the rounds there barefoot. This well is strewn with pieces of bread, and each sick person who visits the well, takes a bit of bread to eat, and puts a bit in its place.

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A rather austere space, neatly maintained and softened by the trailing pink roses.

The well is rectangular and barred, the water clean and fresh. It was once renowned for the potency of its cure and also said to contain a blessed fish, I wonder if that accounts for the piece of bread mentioned in the quote above. The fish is also referred to in this extract:

There is a holy well a very short distance from St Fachtnan’s little Ruined Church at top of Burgatia. This well is visited on August 15th when making a rounds to the Church. A short prayer is said some of the water is taken and people who see a fish rise in the water while kneeling in prayer are cured of their disease. On one occasion my mother was cured of Varicose Veins. She saw the fish rise in the water.

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It seems it was also visited on St John’s Eve and St John’s Day and offered a variety of cures:

St John’s eve and St. John’s day 23rd and 24th June. People visit the well and make rounds to obtain the cure of such diseases and afflictions as rheumatism, lameness, blindness, deafness, paralysis, delicacy, or birth disfigurements, and sores of any kind. Our Father, and Hail Mary are repeated five times while kneeling at the well. Most of the pilgrims then pay a visit to the Blessed Sacrament in the Parish Church. In olden times pilgrims remained up all night, and spent part of the time in the church. No special traditional prayers are said. Some pilgrims say the Rosary, Litany of Our Lady, and other prayers according to their devotion.In case of sores or external afflictions the water is applied to the affected part. The people also drink it. They also carry it away in bottles and use it during the year. For instance if a person gets an internal pain, three sips of the water is believed to bring relief. Articles of piety are hung on the bush beside the well, scapulars, rosary beads or medals. Sometimes medals or money are thrown into the well. Silver coins are rarely left there, a few coppers are thrown into the well or placed on a stone beside it. All the money left near the well is taken by tinkers, who come to Ross for the occasion. The local people never touch it, but they are all quite satisfied that the tinkers take it. Pieces of cloth are tied on the hawthorn bush by the pilgrims, and left there. A trout is supposed to inhabit the well. It would not be right to interfere with the trout, and no one has ever meddled with it. If people see the trout when praying to obtain a cure, their request will be granted. If the trout is not visible, it is a sign that God does not will the cure of the sick person.

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Sadly the rag tree has gone and the area is unadorned and plain but it’s interesting to note the sea pebbles placed on top of the walls, around the well and pressed into the floor of the entrance. Were these pebbles once used by pilgrims marking the stations as they did the rounds?

A more romantic image of the saint can be found in the beautiful St Barrahane’s church in Castletownshend. This church contains three windows by the renowned master of stained glass Harry Clarke. St Fachtna can be spotted in the window The Nativity with the Adoration of the Kings and the Shepherds, with Saints Brigid, Fachtna and Barrahane.

This photo was kindly loaned by Finola of Roaringwater Journal – do check out their website for some fascinating and comprehensive studies of Harry Clarke’s work. The link takes you to their navigation page for there is much to chose from!

Edit: May 2023: I have since found out that the pebbles surrounding the well are purely there for decoration. On this visit the water in the well was copious but very scummy. A large stick inserted into the well proved that it was almost a metre deep and ledged.

St Bridget’s Well, Tobar Brighde, Toberbreedy, Tralong

Judging by the map, I suspected this well was going to be challenging to find. This proved correct. To cut a long story short, we got hopelessly lost and nearly landed up in Drombeg, but the countryside was magnificent.

Having flagged down an unsuspecting motorist and later inquired at a house we eventually headed in the right direction and arrived at a fuchsia-strewn boreen that looked hopeful – at least the sea was on the correct side! A house was at the end of the boreen but no-one was home. We followed a small track that ended up on a cliff and reluctantly decided to call it a day. Walking back up the boreen we noticed a stile, almost covered with vegetation. Peering down the slope we saw a lot of dampness, a good sign.

We clambered under the barbed wire, skidded down the bank and there was the well. It was nicely constructed out of large and sturdy blocks of stone, infilled with smaller stones. Little fuchsia bushes had embedded themselves in the cracks.

The well basin was rectangular with a slab in the front. The water fresh, cold and clear.

Four rather obscure and forgotten wells, nonetheless fascinating for that. If anyone has any information about these wells I would be delighted to receive it.

The locations of all wells can be found in the Gazetteer.

Access to the well at Tralong is on private land, permission should be sought.