You need sharp eyes to spot this tiny little well. It is literally cut out of the side of a bank, the area heavily overgrown with ferns. I cleared away a little of the undergrowth and there was the small, rectangular, stone basin; the water fresh and clear
Traditionally this well was visited on St John’s Eve, 23rd June, and seems to have been part of the rounds centred on the grave of Father Barnane in the nearby churchyard at Maulinward, just a stroll up the road.
The old Medieval church (CO131-007002-) is in ruins but noted for its massive stonework. It was no longer in use by 1699 though the graveyard remained open and Father Barnane attracted pilgrims, both in life and death. He was a parish priest (1790-1818), renown for his healing skills for both humans and animals and after his death his grave became a place of pilgrimage. Rounds began by the east gable, continued clockwise around the church, coming over the stile at the west end, continuing over the stile at the east end until a full circle had been undertaken,
The pattern day eventually became a little too riotous. Father Barnarne for all his holiness was known to have enjoyed a wee drop and after his death it was traditional to leave a bottle of whiskey on his grave. The grave was identified to me by a local man who remembered his mother frequently visiting and paying her respects. A little careful uncovering and a mass of broken glass and ceramic bottles was revealed scattered on top of the grave.
Not only was Father Barnane’s grave visited, it seems at some point he was exhumed for a fragment of what may be his cranium remains, now part of a collection of still revered offerings too be found in a niche in the church. A rosary is draped in the cranium.
There is also a bullaun stone, full of rusting coins. (CO131-007005).
Although the pattern was eventually banned in the nineteenth century, rounds were still being paid in the 1930s and probably included a visit to the well:
In Durrus cemetery … there is a holy well which bears evidence of cures in former times as many personal belongings have been left there. People do not go to pay the rounds here at present but they probably did in former times. Rounds were paid at the grave of a certain Father Bernane who is buried here.
SFC:074:0285
The Irish Tourism Association Survey (ITA) of the 1940s has some more interesting information and describe show the rounds were still being paid in the 1940s. It describes a miraculous cure concerning a crippled child. The family wished to go to America but the boy was refused entry. The mother took the boy to the grave of the priest on three successive Fridays and paid the rounds. Before the last round was completed, the boy threw away his crutches and in due course the family emigrated. Mention was made of the relics connected to Father Barnane which then included part of his skull and some shinbones. It is unclear in the ITA whether the well, here described as Tobairín na Teampaill, Well of the Church, was still included in the rounds.
Other interesting things in the graveyard include an old altar, or mass rock, used during Penal Times and during the pattern day. Coffins were also rested here before burial.
Nearby a small cross slab (CO131-007003) can easily be overlooked but it is very special. On one side is a delicately carved linear ringed cross and on the other side what could be Ogham or more likely grooves made by sharpening. Sharpening what and why is not so clear but it’s a very evocative stone, possibly dating from the 8th century. It’s not in its original position but was brought to the graveyard from the nearby townland of Scart, sometime in the 1930s.
An intriguing area and worth seeking out the little well, usually hidden and retaining its secrets.
Edit: 23rd June, St John’s Eve 2021. A visit to the well out of curiosity and a chance encounter ended in a delightful evening with Durrus Men’s Group who have recently carefully restored the well and were paying their respects on St John’s Eve.
The water remains copious and clear and delicious. It holds a cure for warts.
Frieda Oxenham says
Such an evocative well and image.
freespiral2016 says
It is very special and so easy to overlook.
Finola says
I have a photo showing the skull bone. I love the little basin surrounded by dripping ferns.
freespiral2016 says
The skull bone is quite grisly and often has money in it!
TML1961 says
Fascinating. I particularly love the first image here. You’ve got my interested piqued now to actually try and discover some of the supposed ‘ballaun stones’ around here, now…
freespiral2016 says
I would love to see them, sounds unexpected and intriguing
Robert says
I really like that top image on this post, Amanda. Keep them coming!
Helen says
Evocative image 🙂
Robert Steele says
I’ve searched for this well many times yet never found it, so thank you for this. I can now look again next time I’m in Maulinward. I’ve also wondered about the Ogham stone in the church yard. So much to explore in this fascinating corner of the world.
Amanda Clarke says
It’s good to see it revealed isn’t it. The little cross slab in the churchyard is also very special – not in its original spot apparently.