The enchanting North Cork village of Tullylease was once the site of a large ecclesiastical settlement founded by the wonderfully named St Berrihert (his name can be spelled in a huge number of ways: Bearhtwine, Bearcheart, Berechtuine, Berikert, Berichter, Berectchert, Berechtir, and Berehert, but locally he is mercifully known as St Ben and that’s what I’ll call him). He was of Anglo-Saxon origin, supposedly arriving in Ireland from Winchester, his family having left England due to the Synod of Whitby 664 AD which had imposed a more Roman, as opposed to Celtic, Christianity on the land. The family, possibly four brothers and a sister, and followers arrived in Mayo where they founded a monastery. Later St Ben travelled to Cullen where he stayed with the three saintly sisters (St Lasair, St Laitairian and St Inghne Bhuidhe). Eventually he moved on and ended up in Tullylease where he duly founded another monastery. This wasn’t as simple as it sounds for first he had to contend with the local druid who was not thrilled to see him. A rather ferocious trial was contrived. It was decided that a hut was to be built of highly inflammable material. St Ben and the druid were to go inside, the door closed and the building set alight. Whoever was left standing would win the hearts and minds of the locals! The unfortunate druid was burnt to a crisp and St Ben was left unharmed, ‘not a spot was reddened on him’.
The monastery that developed here was said to be a seat of great learning. Scholars came from near and far but, as there was no formal accommodation, had to build their own huts by clearing the forest around,hence the name of the village: tulach leis – the hill of the huts. Later the site was developed by the Franciscans and the ruins of their abbey still remain, renovated in 1933 by the Board of Works. Inside are some exceptional cross slabs dating from St Berrihert’s time. The most intricate example is a cross of extraordinary craftsmanship, highly decorated in Anglo-Saxon style.
This extract shows how highly the saint was regarded in this part of Cork:
Hundreds of people from all parts of north Cork and west Limerick visited the ancient abbey at Tullylease Co. Cork, on the occasion of the feast-day of the founder, St. Benedict. According to tradition Berichert was the son of the Saxon Prince Cusper who became a cleric. After the synod of Whitby in 699 A.D. he left England with many followers and came to Ireland, and after spending some time at Cullen, came to Tullylease. He here built a monastery and church where he is buried. A holy well nearby is called Tubberichert, and several townlands bear his name Kilberrichert at Knocktemple, and another at Aghabullogue, where there is a holy well called after the saint. The historic Duhallow area possesses a very interesting group of remains associated with the Saxon saint, who left his native Britain over 1,000 years ago and now lies in an Irish grave. The devotions at the local church this year were Mass, Rosary, and Benediction in honour of the patron and were largely attended. The saint was buried in the abbey ruins which contains a headstone of very ancient and artistic origin bearing the Latin inscription: Quicunque hunc titulum legeret, orat pro Berichtum -a translation of which reads:Whoever reads this inscription, pray for Berichert.
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There is also a rather strange figure said to represent St Ben with curly hair and a swallow tailed dress coat. This stone is relatively recent and dates from 1838. though the other stones are contemporary with St Ben.
A polite notice asks you not to rub them for they are indeed much worn having been included in the rounds that were associated with the three holy wells to be found in the vicinity: St Mary’s Well, St Berrihert’s Well and the Deer Stone, all once included within the ecclesiastical settlement.
Edit: the signage has become more forceful in November 2022.
St Mary’s Holy Well
St Mary’s Well is just below the old church. When Colonel Grove White visited in 1907 the subterranean well was protected by a chunky stone wellhouse. This was made sometime in the 1880s by a man who loved the well, Patrick O Callaghan, who, according to an entry in the Main Manuscript of the Folklore Collection (MM0192/3:0450), lined it with bog oak and covered it with a wall of lime and sand mortar. Sometime before the 1930s the building below was replaced with a cement mortar wall and an iron gate.
Today the holy well looks very different. The sides of the well have been built up and a large shrine containing an elegant statue of Our Lady placed above it.
The well itself is in a semi-circular trough, protected by an ornate iron gate decorated with a Celtic cross. The water was clear but a little leaf-infested on the day we visited. A ladle plus special holder, seemingly a specialty of North Cork, was available as were ready filled and labelled bottles of holy water fresh from the well.
The well lies in the townland of Poulavare, Poll a Mhear, which translates as the Hole of the Finger. Tradition has it that the well was once a baptistery but when Cromwell arrived in town he granted it to one of his men. The well was originally lined with oak planks and sheets of lead and was so enticing that the soldier decided to rip the lead from the well with the intention of selling it. When he went to tear out the lead he ripped his finger off instead! Needless to say, the mineral rich water of St Mary’s well is meant to be excellent for curing warts and sore fingers! It also aids toothache and sore limbs. The well is also said to contain a fish, once described as: like gold, (it was) shaped like that of a crab and was considered an extremely good portent.
The site, on the banks of the river, was once used for wheel making and an attractive plaque commemorates this old craft. The old banding gear, last used in 1964, was renovated two years ago and lies close to the well.
St Berihert’s Holy Well
Across the road is St Berrihert’s Well. This is approached through a beautifully kept and attractively landscaped garden. The little whitewashed wellhouse, also renovated pre 1930s, is in a protective walled enclosure, entered through a metal gate, again decorated with a Celtic cross and rosaries.
The wellhouse has a triangular gable, topped with a cross. The well is a step down, a helpful metal bar placed across to ensure you don’t tumble in.
Encircled by the whitewashed wall, this feels a private and intimate space. The stones used for the wall were taken from the remains of St Berrihert’s House of which not much now remains due to this practice.
It was also the custom to take a small stone from the house, dip it in the well, then take it home for it : possess(ed) the virtue of securing the bearer against fire and storm. Does this refer back to St Ben’s original encounter with the druid? The water was consider to cure just about everything but was especially good for sore eyes. A ladle with its own hanging device remains handily placed to collect some of this miraculous stuff.
The Deer Stone
The third well is not actually a well at all but a large ballaun stone known as as the Deer Stone or the Cloch na hEilte and it can be found in the field, once known as the Fair Field, next to the national school. The story goes that this stone would fill up every day with milk and refresh the builders working on the construction of the church. Puzzled by this bounty they decided to keep watch and see where it was coming from. The milk was coming from a deer but just as she was leaving milk in the hole, she saw the builders, became enraged and kicked the stone leaving her hoofprint in it. She and her milk were never seen again!
The stone was however held in high esteem as a cure for headaches. A sufferer was advised to rub her head three times around the bowl, each time invoking the Holy Trinity. Quite hard to actually do, I did have a go. St Ben is also reputed to have baptised pagans from this stone.
Rounds
Although the Deer Stone now looks a bit isolated and forlorn amongst the grass it was one of the sites visited during the rounds which are still held here on St Ben’s Day, the 18th February. Well Day, as it is also called, was originally the 6th December but no one seems very sure why it suddenly changed dates!
The rounds, which can also be done on any Friday or Saturday throughout the year, depended on which direction the pilgrim started from. This extract from the Schools’ Folklore Collection gives some interesting details about the ritual:
…it is not easy to define what people have in their minds when visiting these wells, but it may be understood that the intentions differ with different people; some for spiritual needs, some for fulfilment of vows; some for temporal benefits; and other sfo the cure of their ailments. I know one case of the washing of the mouth and the drinking of the water cured toothache. The sets of devotions differ with different people. People usually begin the rounds according to the direction they come from. If they come from the south or village side, they visit the abbey … kneel down in it and say prayers. They then make the sign of the cross in several places on a stone slab which is laid up upon the eastern gable. This is done with pieces of stone placed there for this purpose. The slab is thought to have been made (carved) much later than Naomh Berriherts time or even the abbey. Having completed the round at the abbey they cross the road to Naomh Berrihert’s well where they kneel down, say more prayers and drink the water. Some take away a fragment of the stone of Naomh Berrihert’s house …There is a box placed near this well (and also near St Mary’s to be mentioned later) for donations, usually pence and halfpence to keep the wells, kneeling stools and drinking vessels in a proper state. They next visit St Mary’s well about 60 yards away at the other side of the road and about 10 yards north of the stream. Here they also say prayers and drink the water. This completes the rounds for most people but some pay more than one round…. some also visit Cloch an hEilte (the stone of the deer) This stone is embedded a field about 80 yards south west of St Berrihert’s Well.
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An intriguing and attractive area, full of history.
Nice that they’re so convenient to each other. Don’t approve at all of this ‘Ben’ business when Berihert has such a ring to it. Have you had a headache since?
And that looks like another different spelling! No, not a bother re headaches since – or sore fingers 🙂